- Original posted June 17, 2012
- Updated January 29, 2013, add comparative picture with and without DPM System
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After having some problems with the Lone Wolf Compensator, I decided to give another recoil reduction system a try. I read about the DPM Mechanical Recoil System for Glocks on the internet, and felt it is a good system as it could be used with the Lone Wolf Compensator later. They also have an Electro-Mechanical (which uses a combination of Springs and Magnets) System, but it was a bit bulky and heavy, and used the forward rail of the Glock, which I also use for a front grip on, so I decided to just get the Mechanical (which uses Springs) System instead.
I read some reviews about it on some forums (see the "Sources" section near the bottom of the page), and there were some issues about it, mainly about reliability issues, and also issues about the spring being too hard and not being able to rack back the slide when it is first installed. These supposed issues can be addressed using various methods, so I decided to go ahead and buy one. I bought one for my Glock 22 from the Zahal website for Usd 89, plus Usd 19 for shipping, and the unit arrived at my doorstep after 23 days or more than three weeks. Here is the actual link where I bought the item:
- http://www.zahal.org/products/recoil-reduction-system-for-glock
'Initial Impression and Installation'
The packaging was standardly good, it is composed of:
- A recoil spring guide with a smaller captive spring system at its end, similar to the standard spring systems for Gen 4 Glocks;
- Two Main Springs, a Gold one, and a Silver one. The Gold spring is the standard spring strength for normal shooting, while the Silver spring (which is longer by a couple of turns) is recommended for shooting hotter or more powerful loads (i.e., +P, +P+, etc.). Both are non-captive springs, unlike the factory guide spring and rod.
Some forums say that you need to compress the recoil spring guide a couple of times by hand before you install it to your pistol to weaken that stiffer smaller spring and allow you to rack the slide back easily. So I did that, and while the spring was stiff, I was able to easily hand compress them a couple of times.
Installing the system to the Glock was straight forward, the same way you do the factory spring system. The only difference is that the main spring is non-captive, so you have to manually insert it into both recoil guide and the slide. Despite this, though, I didn't find the Gold Main Spring to be hard to work with, and was able to slide it in easily.
The DPM Recoil System installed on my Glock 22 |
I was expecting to have a hard time racking back the slide initially, but to my surprise I found no problems with it. Perhaps my handpressing the recoil rod worked, but I doubt it. It is likely the manufacturer has solved the problem.
Front of the DPM System Rod protruding out of my Glock's Slide |
'Recoil Dampening Performance'
Firing my Glock 22 in its "Hand Gun" mode in semi-auto with the DPM System resulted in an impressive improvement in shot recovery. I was most impressed by the fact that I did not have to lose track momentarily of the Red Dot on my Burris Fast Fire 3 anymore between shots, indicating that the DPM System worked very well in lessening the muzzle flip to more manageable levels.
I was able to fire the gun quickly in semi-auto at a rate of around 1 round per second, while still maintaining good accuracy. Below is the video of me firing the gun this way.
http://youtu.be/4bC_Ydxe-W0
More impressive still was its performance in full-auto when my Glock 22 was in its "Machine Pistol" mode. Again, I did not lose sight of the Red Dot on my FF3 during the short 3-4 round bursts, unlike before. I could actually see the Red Dot sort of wandering slowly upwards of the target's torso, it was visible all the while and easy to track. This impressed me the most, that capability to keep the Dot visible on the target even at full-auto bursts.
Here is the video showing me firing the gun in full auto with the DPM System installed (skip to the 1:28 mark if you want to view the firing portion of the video right away):
http://youtu.be/_BBz4xptwDQ
Based on the old forum threads I read, one problem I anticipated was some jams initially, as the system reportedly needed a "break-in" period before it starts to work well. However, during my first 100 rounds thru it in full auto mode, I found no jams, or any other reliability problems whatsoever. Again, whatever problems the unit had before, the manufacturer seems to have fixed it already.
'Conclusion'
I am very, very impressed with the DPM Systems' performance both in semi and full auto, most specially in full auto. The system worked hassle-free in terms of installation and operation. And best of all, it works, and works beautifully. In fact, I think overall it worked much better than the other recoil reduction system I tried, the Lone Wolf Compensator. I had all sorts of problems with that unit, which will be discussed later in a separate blog.
The only thing that needs to be settled is how durable it is. So far I have run 400 rounds thru it both in semi and full auto, and it will take time before I reach a thousand or so rounds with it. I intend to update this blog once I reach that point sometime in the future, and make a note about its durability.
As it is, though, the DPM System worked flawlessly, and worked very well. If you are looking for some system to reduce the recoil in your handgun, this one is VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. It is a bit pricey, but definitely worth your money.
SOURCES:
- DPM recoil reduction review, http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/pps/13355-dpm-recoil-reduction-review.html
(Update January 20, 2013)
I just remembered that I do have a comparative photo (see below) of the Target Boards shot at full auto with my Glock 22 with the factory Recoil Spring System (left target board) and the DPM Mechanical recoil Spring System (right target board). As you can see from the result, there is a significant improvement in terms of the grouping when using the DPM System, reducing the group size by a good couple of inches.
That was a well written and informative blog, just what I was looking for! I plan to build a Glock 20 Longslide and run "full power" 10mm loads through it. Some will be in the 900 ft/lb range so recoil reduction and frame protection are of high interest to me. Would like to know more about the problems you encountered with the LW comp as I have been thinking of using it with the LW 6.6" threaded barrel.
ReplyDeleteHi, Michael. Glad you liked my blog. I think a Glock 20 Longslide would be fantastic, man. We don't see a lot of those here in the Philippines, we only see the ones in the more common calibers like .45, 9mm and .40 cal.
ReplyDeleteAs for the LW Compensator, the main problem I had was the Compensator spinning out of position after a couple of rounds. This happens in semi-auto fire, but is much worst in full-auto fire. The solution was to put Threadlock on both the Retaining Screw and on the Thread of the barrel, which effectively eliminated the problem. HOWEVER, be careful to put only a TINY amount of Threadlock on the Barrel Thread, as too much will lock the Compensator solid like cement. I think one small drop will do the trick, but you can go crazy putting a lot on the Retaining Screw.
Mine is still locked at the moment since I put too much threadlock on the Barrel Thread, will bring it to a Gunsmith one of these days to try to get it unlocked.
The thread locker will melt allowing for disassembly by heating the area with a small butane torch. The metal does not need to be red hot to loosen. Best method is to apply constant and firm pressure to remove while at the same time heating the area. The gun will need to be held in a vise or another person. It will come loose without damaging your gun. Seems we all learn through trial and error. Been there and done that!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the tip, Tom. Got my LWD Compensator "unlocked" by a Gunsmith just recently.
ReplyDeleteHi and thanks for the thorough review. I shoot a Glock 35 in IPSC. I just received the DPM spring in the mail, but it came with two main springs. It's labeled "Multiple Springs Recoil Reduction System for 17L, 24C 34, 35" and it came with a gold-colored spring installed on the rod already. But there is
ReplyDeletealso a silver-colored spring in the package. The silver spring is slightly longer when not under tension. The paper instructions don't mention the different springs, and the DPM website has no instructional videos.
Do you happen to know which spring am I supposed to use with my .40S&W G35, gold or silver colored? Because the silver one is longer, I surmised that it's stiffer and meant for the .40 cal, and the shorter gold one is for the 9mm G34. So I installed the silver one, but I have not been to the range yet.
Thanks from France,
Reno
Reno,
ReplyDeleteAs far as I know, the Gold-colored Spring is for use for STANDARD pressure loads, while the Silver Spring is for use for +P or +P+ loads regardless of caliber. This means that for standard, non +P 9mm or .40S&W rounds, use the Gold Spring. If you start using +P or +P+ 9mm or .40S&W rounds, then you use the Silver Spring.
I use the Gold Spring on my Glock 22 (in .40S&W caliber), and it works fine. I did try using the Silver Spring one time on my Glock 22, and it was having Failure to Feed issues because the spring was too strong. I was using reloaded rounds then.
Hope this helps ...
Oh yeah, that helps a lot! Now I can go to the range with the correct spring in there. I'll post another reply after I shoot a few hundred rounds.
ReplyDeleteI was having partial-feed jams with the standard spring using Fiocchi factory ammo (170g FMJ truncated cone). I have never had any Glock fail to feed correctly before; not even once. This G35 is new, and the problem seems to be getting better as the pistol breaks in. I imagine that the DPM spring will help too.
On the topic of +p 40S&W, I have never seen that myself. But a quick google shows that some exists. As the 40 is already relatively hot even in standard load, I don't think that +p would be of any use for me. I'll keep that gold spring as a spare.
Where are you located that you are allowed full-auto on your Glocks? That is illegal in my country, alas.
Reno
I'm from the Philippines, Reno. Unfortunately, my full-auto firing days on my Glock seems to be coming to a close, because our stupid Philippine President just signed into law a very restrictive gun law. This will have huge impact on my gun-shooting days, we are still reeling about the thoughts on how it will affect us Filipino gun owners in the long run ...
ReplyDeletebrother rhk111, kamusta? i have a glock 19 and i am using the federal hsp 147 grain. should i use the gold spring or the silver? thanks sir.
ReplyDeleteYung Silver, pang +P at +P+ ammo lang yung Gold.
ReplyDeleteGreat review. Looks like it’s a been a while since the review was written. Do you have any feedback on durability of the DMP ?
ReplyDeleteI'm using it up to now. I would say in terms of durability, it is about as good as the original Recoil System.
ReplyDeleteA lot has changed to Philippine Gun and Import Laws since I wrote these articles. Before it was a lot easier to get a License, etc. but now, too expensive, too time consuming. Also they don't allow the individual import of Firearms Parts anymore, not as easy as before.
That's the main reason why I quit writing about them.
I am still upgrading my Glocks though every now and then, but I am having second thoughts about writing about them since it might drive the authorities to be even more strict with the firearms laws.