I already owned and used the ordinary Ghost 3.5 lb. Connector, and it did a good job of lightening the Trigger pull of my Glock. However, I later realized that I not only needed to lighten the trigger of my Glock, I also have to shorten it, too, and that is why I decided to try out the Ghost Rocket Connector, as it claims to be able to do that. The Ghost Rocket 3.5 lb. Connector also differs from the ordinary Ghost 3.5 lb. Connector in that it while the former is a drop-in change, the latter needs some minor fitting by the user.
I actually only wanted to get the Rocket Connector and the Ghost Armorer's Plate (more on this later), but I could not find anybody who could ship only these two items to the Philippines, so I just decided to buy the Ghost Rocket Trigger Installation Kit for Glocks GEN 1-4. I bought the kit from the "Rock Your Glock" website for USD 41, and which arrived about 3 weeks later. It consists of the following:
- Ghost Rocket 3.5 lb Connector
- 6.0 lb Trigger Spring
- 4.0 lb Striker Pin Spring
- Ghost Armorers Plate
- Ghost Armorers Tool
- Reduced Power Safety Plunger Spring
'Fitting and Installation'
The first thing you need to do before installing the unit, it to replace the factory Slide Cover with the Ghost Armorers Plate on the slide. The Plate is actually a Slide Cover that is only half the length of the factory Slide Cover, and what it does is it provides an opening on the back of the slide that allows you to depress the trigger bar if necessary.
This is needed because while you are working on the Connector, you may not be able to release the Striker with the trigger, and if you are not able to release the Striker, then it will be harder for you to disassemble the gun.
To install the Connector properly, you will need to file down a bit on the TCT, then install it, test it, fire it, and remove and start the cycle all over again. This is a TRIAL AND ERROR method, and requires a lot of patience, and assembly and disassembly of the gun. If the TCT is too long for your trigger, the gun will not fire when you pull the trigger. You know that the fitting is done when the Striker finally falls during Dry Firing.
You need to remove only a little material off the TCT before you assemble and test it. If you remove too much, the trigger will not work properly. I used an ordinary smooth triangular metal file bought from a nearby Hardware Store to slowly file down the TCT.
It took me about 1 1/2 hours of work to finally get the gun to fire with the Rocket Connector. In that time, I also probably assembled and disassembled the gun about a dozen times, so you really have to take your time and be patient about the whole thing.
When I finally got the Rocket Connector working, I found that the overall travel of the trigger has been shortened to probably around half of what it was before, mainly due to the removal of the overtravel. You still end up with a the two-stage trigger feel, but the second stage where the trigger "breaks" is much shorter, and together with the lack of overtravel, you are able to maintain your sights on target without much wobble.
Picture of the Ghost Rocket Connector installed on the Trigger Housing. Note the TCT that differentiates it from the other Glock Connectors out there |
'Trigger Sticking Problem'
However, I did find one main problem, and that is what I call a "Trigger Sticking" issue. This is when the trigger has a hard time "breaking", or releasing the Striker. What happens is that when you pull the trigger all the way back, the Striker is not released, so you have exert more effort to release it. This slows down your ability to fire the weapon instead of speeding it up.
It is also quite bothersome in that I can't seem to find the exact cause of the problem. Just when I thought I had solved the problem, it comes back out again. I initially thought it had something to do with Striker Springs, and switching to a lighter one solved the problem for awhile, but it came back again after I disassembled/reassembled the trigger assembly.
Then I thought it had something to do with how you insert the trigger assembly into the trigger housing, and it solved it for awhile. The problem now is that I can't recreate the problem again anymore, even if I don't insert the assembly properly into the housing. It seems to have gone away, and I really don't know exactly what caused it. I may have to get back to this issue again at a later blog when I finally pinpoint the problem.
At any rate, if you encounter this problem, it seems the solution would be to just disassemble and then reassemble the trigger assembly, going by trial and error until it goes away. You may also need to just break the gun in for 100 or so rounds if it doesn't go away after disassembling and reassembling. Perhaps the internal stresses caused by the firing of the gun will shake things up whatever is the cause, and keep it from happening again. I noticed mine seemed to go away permanently (or so it seems) after shooting my first 100 rounds thru it.
'Changing the Trigger System Springs'
I would recommend buying the whole Ghost Rocket Connector Kit, if only for the aftermarket springs that come with it. This is because I feel to OPTIMIZE the Rocket Connector, you will need to play around with the Glock's trigger spring system. The Springs that come with the kit are as follows:
- 6.0 lb Trigger Spring
- 4.0 lb Striker Pin Spring
- Reduced Power Safety Plunger Spring
For reference and comparison, here are the load ratings for the factory springs:
- Factory Trigger Spring = 5.5 lbs.
- Factory Striker Pin Spring = 5.5 lbs.
- Factory Safety Plunger Spring = No reference on exact value
After playing around with the spring combinations, I finally came up with this combination. I find it to have the best balance in terms of accuracy during fast firing, but at the same time maintaining a reasonable amount of safety with the trigger:
- 6.0 lb Trigger Spring
- Factory Striker Pin Spring = 5.5 lbs.
- Reduced Power Safety Plunger Spring
Take note that the 6.0 lb. Trigger Spring, although only half a pound heavier than the factory spring, it gives a different "feel" or break to the trigger. You can attribute this to its difference in physical properties to the factory trigger spring. For one, it has a smaller outer diameter then the factory trigger spring, and yet is slightly heavier.
The Reduced Power Safety Plunger Spring is also highly recommended. It makes the first stage of the Glock trigger so light that it becomes a non-factor when you pull the trigger quickly, hence your aim will not be thrown off as much anymore.
'Range Time'
The Rocket Connector lived up to its promise during actual firing. With it, I am able to fire fast shots and keep a vast majority of my shots on the target's A-Zone. Here are sample pics of my target paper. Distance was at 13 meters, using 180 grain Semi Wad Cutter-Teflon Coated (SWC-TC) reloaded rounds, at a firing rate of about 1 shot per second.
First Target Paper |
Second Target Paper |
In comparison, I could never do the same using the stock Glock trigger, not at that fast rate of fire, anyway. And here is a video of me during the break-in of the Ghost Rocket Connector:
http://youtu.be/4bC_Ydxe-W0
'Parting Shot'
I would've highly recommended the Ghost Rocket 3.5 lb. Connector if not for that "Trigger Sticking" issue, which remains a bit of a mystery to me. It hasn't come back, though, and maybe its just an issue of breaking in the unit.
At any rate, when working properly, the Rocket Connector will LIGHTEN and SHORTEN the Glock trigger. And because of the shorter break and lack of overtravel, it is likely it will help you shoot the gun faster, but maintaning good accuracy.
In summary:
- Be patient when filing the TCT, be prepared to spend 1-2 hours to complete the work and assemble-disassemble it around a dozen times.
- I recomend buying the whole kit as you will need to use the Ghost Armorer Plate, and the springs will give you more options on how heavy or light your trigger will be.
- That "Trigger Sticking" issue is a bit of a bother, and you may have to go thru a break-in period to eliminate it.
'Other Options'
A similar effect of shortening that trigger pull and removing the overtravel could also probably be realized using one of those "Fulcrum" triggers with the over and pre-travel adjustments like Glockworx makes, but they are much more expensive, starting at Usd 150 as opposed to the Glock Rocket Connector Kit which is only Usd 41.
Ghost does offer a Ghost Tactical 5 lb. Connector, which is the same as the Ghost Rocket Connector in that it has the TCT, but at 5 lbs. results in a heavier trigger, making it safer for Every Day Carry (EDC). Not sure if I will try this out, though, as I feel my current setup is good enough for EDC.
SOURCES:
- Ghost Rocket Trigger Installation Kit for Glocks from Gen 1-4, http://www.ghostinc.com/product/GHO_RIK/Rocket-Trigger-Installation-Kit-for-Glocks-GEN-1-4.html
- Ghost Tactical 5 lb. Connector, http://www.ghostinc.com/category/50_tactical/
I had the same issue with the ghost rocket trigger and found out, that I have put the trigger spring the wrong way in. When you pull the trigger bar up and out of the housing and look at it from the connectors side the spring should look like a S not like a ?.
ReplyDeleteBut I didn't verify that by putting the spring in wrong again.
Well, strangely I haven't had that "Trigger Sticking" problem since.
ReplyDeleteI have to admit, I have not been using my Ghost Rocket Connector nowadays, mainly due to one thing: It doesn't work with a Full-Auto Sear. It's not a problem if you don't use the FAS with your Glock, but I like to shoot off such every now and then. Still saving it, though, in case I finally get a Glock 26 or 27 for EDC.
Will update the blog soon to reflect this ...