My Glock 22 in Machine Pistol Configuration

I was generally satisfied with the Glock 23 Machine Pistol configuration that I assembled, it can easily contain short full automatic bursts into a man-sized target at around 13 meters. However, I felt I could build a better Machine Pistol, one that would enable me to shoot full automatic bursts accurately at even longer ranges. For this reason, I decided to buy a Glock 22, as I felt the recoil-reducing accessories and/or parts necessary for building a better Glock Machine Pistol are only currently available on the full-sized Glocks. 

These recoil-reducing accessories are mainly the Endotactical Tactical Stock Adaptor - Glock (TSA-G), coupled with a Magpul Utility Battle Rifle (UBR) Stock. I have reviewed these separately, you can find them here and here. Aside from this, I also used the CAA Tactical Folding Grip Glock - Small (FGG-S), and a Lone Wolf Compensator (coupled to a Lone Wolf Threaded Barrel).


'First Firing Range Session'
With everything more or less ready, I took my Glock 22 in its Machine Pistol configuration into the shooting range for the first time. I used Target Boards, at my standard range of 13 meters. First test was using the STOCK or FACTORY BARREL, with 50 rounds of Semi-Wadcutter, Teflon-Coated (SWC-TC) reloads in standard .40S&W loadings. Recoil was quite noticeable, with the UBR Stock jumping up and into my shoulders with some vigorousity. 

The Truth About Lone Wolf Barrels for Glock

I decided to write a long piece about Lone Wolf Distributors' (LWD) barrels for Glock, when I noticed that wrong information about these barrels are still prevalent. I own samples of these barrels, and I want to share what I found about them based on my personal shooting experience with them.

'For Shooting Reloads on Glock'
If you look around the local internet firearms forums or local sales/auction sites, you will notice that most of them recommend the use of these barrels so you can shoot reloads on Glock pistols. Glock pistols come from the factory with its own patented type of "Polygonal Rifling", which they claim lessen friction between the barrel and the bullet, thus increasing the velocity of the bullet as it leaves the barrel.

Unfortunately, such rifling tends to build up more deposits in the barrel at a faster rate, which, if the build up is sufficient enough, could cause certain types of catasthropic failures during firing in one form, or the other. This is the reason why Glock in their manual specify that lead bullets NOT be used using the stock or factory barrel. 

My Glock 23 Review Part Five

'Reloads on Stock Barrel'
There has been a lot of written articles about not using Teflon reloads on the stock .40S&W Glock barrel as this would be prone to the kaBoom! or kB! issue. I thought about getting one of those aftermarket barrels which Twin Pines is selling for P7.5k, they are also recommended for shooting Teflon reloads, but then I noticed that a lot of Glock .40S&W owners also has been saying that they have been using Teflon reloads on their stock Glock barrels, so I decided just take a chance and start using reloads. Besides, I just could not afford to keep shooting brandnew FMJ ammo at P21.50 per pop.

As of this writing, I have shot around 950 rounds of Semi-Wadcutter Teflon reloads on my Glock, of which 350 rounds was fired at full auto, and so far I have had no serious issues yet. I do understand the risk, perhaps one of these days I will regret this action and ruin my precious Glock. But, then again, in my humble opinion, as long as I use quality reloads, I should have a good chance of continuing of having a good, shooting experience.

By "quality" reloads, I mean reloads from the major shooting ranges (i.e., those with multiple branches, like Jethro Dionisio, Armscor, etc.). If the shooting range is a small, mom and pop or backyard affair, I think it is worth the risk of buying reloads from major reloaders (i.e., Stronghand, Magnus, etc.), and just bringing it to the range and paying for the corkage fees.

I do make it a habit of cleaning a pistol thoroughly (especially the barrel) within 24-hours of each shooting session. My late father told me you have that amount of time before the corrossive components of the powder residue starts corroding and pitting your barrel. I don't know if that's true, but it does make for a great shooting habit.

One problem I do see with using reloads, is how dirty the gun can be afterwards, especially since I average firing 100 rounds per shooting session. The dirt gets into the nook and crannies of my unit, so I have to detail strip it every time I clean it, to remove the smell and the soot. Strangely, though, the barrel doesn't seem to be excessively fouled up after a shooting session. The barrel remains in excellent condition, with no pittings on it.