My CZ-75B Omega Review

Growing up, the CZ-75 has been one of my "fantasy" guns. I remember going to the gun shows, always trying out one and being constantly amazed by its ergonomics. The grip is not only "shaped", is it SCULPTED to fit one's hand with utmost comfort. It was as if each gun was made specifically just to fit my hand, which is of course preposterous, but speaks volumes of the guns ergonomics.

Its all-steel construction gives it a nice "feel" and heft also, it is a finely balanced or weighed gun. My brother got issued with the CZ-75B Omega version of the CZ-75, and I got to shoot about 50 rounds thru it at a shooting range.

'Trigger System'
The CZ-75B Omega is basically a typical CZ-75B, the only main difference meriting its "Omega" designation is the fact that the trigger system has been reworked by the factory to make smoother than the standard model. Externally it looks exactly the same as the standard model, and the only way to tell the difference is by the Omega symbol on the slide markings. The trigger is supposed to come as close as possible to a custom trigger job.

My Review of the Lone Wolf .40 Cal Compensator for Glocks

I got the Lone Wolf .40 Caliber Compensator for Glock pistols a couple of months ago mainly for use to help control recoil at full-auto. Aesthetically, the compensator looks great, giving the gun an exotic, space gun like look to it. The sharp edges also seem to make it look intimidating, and in my personal opinion, just helps in making the gun look very nice. 

Bottom view of the Lone Wolf .40 cal Compensator

Side view of the Lone Wolf .40 cal Compensator

My M4-Based SBR Build: On Hold Indefinitely

A couple of people have been following and asking about the status of my M4 Rifle build, hence I have decided to give this update. As of this writing, I have put my M4 Rifle build on indefinite hold, mainly because of problems acquiring the two most critical parts of the rifle: The bare Lower Receiver, and the Barrel.

I was set to get these two items from Twin Pines, as they were offering the cheapest price for them that I know of (brand new, anyway). Their casted, bare Lower Receiver costs only Php 15,000 (approximately Usd 365), while their 7.5" barrel made by Dassan of South Korea costs only Php 9,000 (approximately Usd 220).

Initially, they told me that to get these two items, I would only need licensing requirements for a High Powered Rifle (HPR), plus licensing fee of Php 7,500 (approximately Usd 180). So a couple of months ago, I prepared the requirements (National Bureau of Investigation Clearance, which I fortunately had one ready at that time, Proof of Employment as Overseas Filipino Worker, etc.), and the funds, and proceeded to get the items from them.

My Review of the Burris Fast Fire 3 Part Three

'Batteries, and Battery Life'
One problem with these Reflex Sights as opposed to iron sights is that they use batteries, which are consumable, and therefore have limited lifespans. Since I bought the unit in May 2012, I have had two battery changes already. The first battery change came a month after I bought it. I think the reason why the battery life was so short, was because the battery that came with the unit was the generic, unmarked made-in-china type of battery.

The battery needed for the unit was the CR1632, and after the generic china battery, I bought a branded Panasonic battery for the unit for P50 each at one of the kiosks in the malls specializing in batteries. The Panasonic battery lasted about 5 months of fairly heavy use, until it gave out last week (October 2012). 

Generic CR1632 battery on the left, compared with the Panasonic version

Lone Wolf Glock 22 Barrel Chamber Reaming

'Reaming the Chamber of My Lone Wolf Barrel'
I detailed my problems with using reloads on my Lone Wolf barrels in an earlier blog, ("The Truth About Lone Wolf Barrels for Glock"), and it took me awhile to correct the problem mainly because I had a bit of trouble finding a local Gunsmith who could do it. I went to four different Gunsmiths, and only one was able to do it.

To correct the issue, what needed to be done was to ream to widen the chamber of the barrel to approximate the dimensions of the stock Glock barrels as Lone Wolf barrels have smaller chamber dimensions. The smaller dimensions result in Failure To Feed (FTF) issues when using reloads that would otherwise function perfectly with stock Glock barrels.

Of the three who weren't able to do it (which shall remain unnamed as of now), one said there is no need for it as the barrel would widen up on its own (but after a couple of hundred rounds, that didn't happen); Another didn't even know that such procedure could be done; And the third was hesitant to do it, saying the chamber might become oversized. Seeing that they did not have the experience to do the job, I just decided not to let them do it.

My M4-Based SBR Build: Sighting System

The third assembly or system I have completed on my M4-Based SBR build is the sighting system. Rifles will be largely useless without a sighting system, and I have chosen to use an Optic sight for my main sighting system, and Iron Sights as back up. 

Total price was at Php 12,154 (approximately Usd 289), which I think is just about the same in the US, based on the prices of similar items that I have looked at in the internet being sold there.

‘Parts Breakdown and Details'
Here is a breakdown of the parts of the system, and posted alongside each are the prices and where I bought them (note that all the prices included Shipping Costs wherever they apply. If the parts came with multiple shipments, I just divided the Shipping Costs with the number of items that arrived):
- Burris Fast Fire 2 Reflex Sight, P 6,000 (Online, Philippine Pistol Forum)
- Picatinny Protector for Fast Fire 2 Matte Black, P 4,202 (Online, Ebay.ph -from US location)
- 45 Degree Offset Back Up Iron Sights, P 1,952 (Online, Ebay.ph - from US location)

My M4-Based SBR Build: Upper Receiver Assembly

I have completed the second assembly for my M4-Based SBR build, and it is the Upper Receiver Assembly. Total price was at Php 22,466 (approximately Usd 535). Again, by US standards, it is shockingly expensive, as it is almost the price of some basic M4 Rifles I have seen on US websites. 

But that is life here in the Philippines, where owning firearms is not a right but a privillege, meaning only those who can afford can legally get one.

‘Parts Breakdown and Details'
Here is a breakdown of the parts of the assembly, and posted alongside each are the prices and where I bought them (note that all the prices included Shipping Costs wherever they apply. If the parts came with multiple shipments, I just divided the Shipping Costs with the number of items that arrived):
- Elisco Bolt Carrier Group (BCG), Php 6,800 (Online, Philippine Pistol Forum)
- Rock Island Armory M16 Upper Receiver, Php 12,000 (Twin Pines MCS)
- Ejection Port Cover Assembly, Php 1,100 (Final Option SM Megamall Gun Show)
- Forward Assist Assembly with Round Handle and Roll Pin, Php 916 (Online, Ebay.ph from US location)
- Charging Handle Assembly with Tactical Latch 1, Php 1,650 (Online, Ebay.ph from US location)

My Review of the Pachmayr Tactical Grip Glove for Full-Sized Glocks

I was thinking of trying out some of those Rubber Decal Grip Stickers on my Glock 22, but then I noticed that Rubber Slip-On Grips more or less accomplish the same thing. Because of this, I decided to try one out instead. 

'Slip-On Grip Choices'
When it comes to these rubber slip-on grips, there are basically only two major brands for it: Hogue, and Pachmayr. I chose the Pachmayr over the Hogue mainly because of the type of rubber used. These two manufacturers use different types of rubber raw materials and/or blends, and their grips end up with slightly different properties.

Hogue has this sort of "wet" type of rubber that tends to stick into your hands better, but feels a bit messy or "juicy" to me. I got to handle one a lot before on my father's 1911, and I didn't like it very much. Pachmayr, on the other hand, uses a "drier" type of rubber that doesn't stick to your hand as much, which for me is better.

My M4-Based SBR Build: Buttstock Assembly

I have completed the first assembly for my M4-Based SBR build, and it is the Buttstock Assembly. Total price was at P6,547 (approximately USD 152). By US standards, it is shockingly expensive, as I have seen similar assemblies on Amazon sellling for only USD 50 in the US. I was initially thinking of getting a Magpul CTR Stock, but prices of such stocks in Philippine Gun Stores are insane, and I had problems finding an original one from a source that would ship to the Philippines.

The M4 Standard Stock showing the individual parts of the assembly


The M4 Standard Stock with all the individual parts assembled


Even if I could find one, the prices online, while much lower than the insane prices from the Gun Stores, still would've been much more expensive than the Standard M4 Stock. I also thought that in terms of looks, I think the Standard M4 Stock is better than the Magpul CTR as it is sleeker in appearance.

I could've bought these Standard M4 Stocks for much cheaper prices from some Chinese websites, but by the time I "discovered" them, I had already bought most of the items. Besides, I had excess parts from my Glock Machine Pistol build in form of the Tapco Rubber Pad and Buffer Tube, and didn't want them to go to waste, so I just decided to build around them instead.

My Planned M4-Based SBR Build

A couple of months ago, I got rid of my Norinco AK-47 because for the two years it was with me, I was unable to even test fire it in that time due to the change in the political system that caused a tightening of the Permit To Transport for High Powered Rifles (HPRs). However, things have loosened up lately, and it is now easier to get a PTT for HPRs, and this is one of the reasons why I have decided to do an M4 Short Barreled Rifle (SBR) build.

Would it have been more sensible for me to just wait a little longer rather than disposing my AK? Not really, because the lack of the PTT is just one of the reasons I got rid of it. I also found the AK-47 to be a little bit too heavy and front-heavy for comfort. I felt I still would've gotten rid of it in the end.

Lastly, there is one thing I could do with the M4-based SBR that I could never do with the AK-47, and that is to build the rifle from scratch, using my own chosen specifications and parts. There are very few firearms that one can build from the ground up, at least in this part of the world, and one of them is the M16/M4 rifle. This is because the M4/M16 rifle has a lot of users both in the military and civilian sector, which therefore means more demand for parts. This in turn drives manufacturers to make more parts, which become then more easily available in the market.

(Update - July 2012) Magpul Products' Availability in the Philippines

Three months after I posted my first blog about the availability of genuine Magpul Products in the Philippines, I was finally able to buy some of these products. Below is a picture of some of them:

From left to right: Magpul MIAD Grip, Magpul MOE Trigger Guard and Magpul BAD Lever


The parts seem genuine, the packaging is complete and top notch, and the parts themselves seem to be made of genuine high quality Polymer that Magpul is known for, instead of the lesser quality Polymer or even ABS Plastic materials that the copies are made of.

'ebay.ph'
I bought the above items from ebay.ph, from a seller in the US. The prices were great, just a couple of dollars above the typical retail listed prices for these items, way better than the ridiculous prices the local gun stores sell them for. The only problem with these parts is that the availability tends to be inconsistent at best, and this is mainly because the sellers are mostly individuals, not stores, and therefore could only have a few items at a time on their stocks.

My guess is that they buy these on sales, and turn around and sell them online. The available parts on sale is probably only limited, and their budget is also limited, and thus could only stock a few items at a time. So if you see one being sold, I suggest you grab one immediately as they may not be around for long.

My Review for the M4 Collapsible Stock for Glock

After the fiasco of using a Magpul UBR Stock copy for my Glock, which turned out to be too heavy for the unit, I wanted to use the lightest possible M4 Stock available to pair with my Endotactical Tactical Stock Adapter - Glock (TSA-G). After looking around some firearms forums, it turns out that the stock or factory standard M4 Collabsible Stock is among the lightest available.

I chose the standard Mil-spec M4 stock mainly because it was available, and cheaper than the other light stocks like the Colt Super-Stoc of Magpul CTR. In terms of looks, it doesn't look too bad either. I got the "ribbed" version (as opposed to the "dotted" or "ultra-thin" version. Oh, wait, those are for other things, sorry), which I assume to be the more modern one as it allows various accessories to be fitted to the stock if you so desire.

I wasn't able to measure the weight of the stock, but information from the forum threads say they are around 6 ounces, or less than half a pound. Material is reportedly some sort of ABS Plastic, and the workmanship was fantastico! No flashes or other imperfections to be found anywhere on the stock. The finish was quite good, best seen in actual because it doesn't translate very well into digital pictures.

M4-Based Short Barreled Rifle Barrel Selection Considerations

I am planning to assemble my first Short Barreled Rifle (SBR) based on the M4 Carbine platform of my own, and I have been trying to do a lot of reading about how to go about. In the course of my research, I have come across various interesting aspects that I would like to share with other newbies out there.

One of the more interesting facts I found out are the factors one has to consider when choosing the barrel length for an SBR. First, just a quick review of the term "Short Barreled Rifle": It is taken from the United States' Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (BATF) definition of any shoulder-fired, rifled firearm with a length of less than 16".

Also, note that the standard M16/M4 barrel comes in four general classifications. Below are a listing of them, with the maximum length for each classification noted down next to it:
- Rifle Length, 20"
- Mid-Length, 16"
- Carbine Length, 14.5"
- Pistol Length, 7.5"

My Review of the Ghost Rocket 3.5 lb Connector

Take note that the company "Ghost Inc." also sells a Ghost 3.5lb Connector, which is DIFFERENT from their Ghost 3.5 lb. ROCKET Connector. The main difference between the two, is that their "Rocket" Connector has a "Trigger Control Tab" (TCT) which they claim to also shorten the travel of the Glock Trigger.

I already owned and used the ordinary Ghost 3.5 lb. Connector, and it did a good job of lightening the Trigger pull of my Glock. However, I later realized that I not only needed to lighten the trigger of my Glock, I also have to shorten it, too, and that is why I decided to try out the Ghost Rocket Connector, as it claims to be able to do that. The Ghost Rocket 3.5 lb. Connector also differs from the ordinary Ghost 3.5 lb. Connector in that it while the former is a drop-in change, the latter needs some minor fitting by the user.

I actually only wanted to get the Rocket Connector and the Ghost Armorer's Plate (more on this later), but I could not find anybody who could ship only these two items to the Philippines, so I just decided to buy the Ghost Rocket Trigger Installation Kit for Glocks GEN 1-4. I bought the kit from the "Rock Your Glock" website for USD 41, and which arrived about 3 weeks later. It consists of the following:
- Ghost Rocket 3.5 lb Connector
- 6.0 lb Trigger Spring
- 4.0 lb Striker Pin Spring
- Ghost Armorers Plate
- Ghost Armorers Tool
- Reduced Power Safety Plunger Spring

My Review of the DPM Mechanical Recoil System for Glock

Update History:
- Original posted June 17, 2012
- Updated January 29, 2013, add comparative picture with and without DPM System
——————-

After having some problems with the Lone Wolf Compensator, I decided to give another recoil reduction system a try. I read about the DPM Mechanical Recoil System for Glocks on the internet, and felt it is a good system as it could be used with the Lone Wolf Compensator later. They also have an Electro-Mechanical (which uses a combination of Springs and Magnets) System, but it was a bit bulky and heavy, and used the forward rail of the Glock, which I also use for a front grip on, so I decided to just get the Mechanical (which uses Springs) System instead.

I read some reviews about it on some forums (see the "Sources" section near the bottom of the page), and there were some issues about it, mainly about reliability issues, and also issues about the spring being too hard and not being able to rack back the slide when it is first installed. These supposed issues can be addressed using various methods, so I decided to go ahead and buy one. I bought one for my Glock 22 from the Zahal website for Usd 89, plus Usd 19 for shipping, and the unit arrived at my doorstep after 23 days or more than three weeks. Here is the actual link where I bought the item:
- http://www.zahal.org/products/recoil-reduction-system-for-glock

(Video) DPM Recoil System and Ghost Rocket Connector Test on my Glock 22

Got the DPM Mechanical Recoil System and Ghost Rocket 3.5 lb. Connector working on my Glock 22 lately, so I decided to try them out in "Handgun Mode". Pretty nice additions to the Glock, and very highly recommended.

I will be doing a more in-depth written review of both systems later, in the meantime, here is the video those systems in action in my Glock.

DPM Recoil System and Ghost Rocket Connector Test on my Glock 22

My Review of the Burris Fast Fire 3 Part Two

'Dimensional and Gasket Differences with the FF2'
In terms of width, the FF2 and FF4 are the same. However, the FF3 is both a bit longer and taller than the FF2. Despite these differences, though, the FF3 will still fit on existing mounts made for the FF2. Since it is a bit longer, it does protrude a bit lengthwise on my Glock Slide Mount.

Top view of both sights, showing the longer length of the Burris FF3


The taller profile of the FF3 gives it a slightly better field of view compared to the FF2, which is pretty good from a practical point of view. However, the taller profile doesn't look very good, and sort of ruins the sleek appearance of the sight, especially the side profile. In terms of overall looks, I think the FF2 is better than the FF3.

Front view of both sights, showing the taller profile of the Burris FF3


The Gasket on the bottom of the sight is also different. On the FF2, it is wide and loose, which actually ended up being damaged slightly after I installed/removed it 2-3 times. On the FF3, it is smaller with a different shape, and is fixed, making it more durable and less likely to be damaged during installation/removal.

(Video) My Glock 22 in its Machine Pistol Mode Part Two

Here is the second video I made of my Glock 22 in its "Machine Pistol" Mode. I used a small Tri-pod this time, and the focus and stability of the video has improved a bit. I also did some shooting of the weapon in full-auto bursts, and showed the results afterwards.

Glock 22 Machine Pistol Part Two

(Video) My Glock 22 in its Machine Pistol Mode Part One

They said a picture is worth a thousand words, so a video would be even more so. That's why I decided to take a video of my Glock 22 in what I call its "Machine Pistol Mode" so people can capture a bit more detail that just the words and pictures I have posted here thus far. I intend to make a couple more over the next couple of weeks or months, depending on how much more detail I feel I can share more with videos.

Forgive the mediocre camera focus, I used only a Samsung PL120 Digital Camera. It works very well with still pictures, but apparently not very much with indoor close up videos. I hope I can rectify this on my next videos. So now here is the video itself:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4NVUuxLP20

Glock Rear Sight Installation

I've had some problems installing the Polymer rear sights on my Glocks, so I decided to write a long article here about some of the lessons I've learned during those instances. I have had to remove the factory sights on my Glock 23 and Glock 22 to make way for my Burris Fast Fire II Reflex Sight. Now the Burris FF2 will be with the Glock 22, and I ruined one factory sight installing it on my Glock 23 before finally succeeded.

'Glock Rear Sight Tool'
I haven't found a way to remove those factory sights without ruining them. I tried twice, and each time just destroyed both sights. The best way to remove and/or install these factory sights, would be by the use of a Glock Rear Sight Tool. It consists of a vise and some inserts to hold the sight properly and tightly as it is being removed or inserted, and allows accurate and easier installation/removal of the sights without ruining them.

However, these Sight Tools are pretty expensive, starting at around USD 90 and up if you buy them online. If you find any lower than USD 90, then that's a bargain already. Its even more expensive at the Makati Cinema Square Gun Stores, where they are selling them for P12k (USD 280) each. The price is just too high for something you will seldom use, so if you are not awash with cash, then you will have to just find some other way to do it.

My Review of the Burris Fast Fire 3 Part One

I was relatively happy with my Burris Fast Fire 2 (FF2), but when the Burris Fast Fire 3 (FF3) came out, I saw that they had made some important and significant improvements that could make it a worthwhile upgrade. So I waited until the price dropped down, and bought one.

'Reticle Size'
One of the main and obvious improvements they made with the FF3 is that it now comes in two reticle sizes, 3 Minute of Angle (MoA), and 8 MoA. You cannot have both reticle sizes on one sight, you have to specify which one you would like to get when you buy it. The FF2 came with one reticle size only, at 4MoA. It was okay, but I found it a bit small, and hard to quickly find sometimes, especially when you are moving your handgun with your sight on it around.

The advantage of relatively small reticle sizes, is that you can hit further with it, because the sight will not be covering much of the target. However, since I will be using my FF3 on my Glock which I don't generally intend to shoot more than 100 meters, I would prefer a bigger reticle size, and that is why I decided to get the FF3 with the 8MoA reticle size.

My Glock 22 Review Part One

I owned my very first Glock about six months ago, and now I have my second Glock. They are just fantastic guns, they are light, and engineered so well that they are reliable, durable, and accurate, enabling me to easily hit tight groups with it when I need to. 

They also have so many accessories and parts that you can buy off the market, and they are almost all drop in, something you do on your own, at your own leasure. And it also enables you to customize your gun to your own liking or whim.

Also, I felt I can build a better Machine Pistol with it since some of the critical accessories for doing so only available for full-sized Glocks like the Glock 22. 

Color Filling Your Glock's Engravings with Nail Polish

I found some videos on Youtube with instructions on how to add colors to your firearms' engravings. Some use Crayons, some with Modelling Paints, but I chose to do mine using Nail Polish because I felt it would be more durable than using Crayons, and yet easier to find than other paint materials. Here is the video that I used for instructions:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcLzaxqsOCE

This works not only on the slide, but on the Polymer magazines as well. Here are the end results on my Glock 22:



Just follow the instructions on the video, and you should be fine. A couple of important notes, though to remember, though, based on my experience doing this:

'Choosing the Materials'
I used the "Caronia" brand for the Nail Polish, and "Bobbie" brand for the Nail Polish Remover, although any other brand you can find will do. These can easily be bought at your neighborhood SM Department Store. If the Saleslady starts giving you strange looks, just explain right away that you are using these for your gun's engravings. Of course, she will probably just think, "Yeah, right". The polish and remover are dirt cheap, I was able to buy 2 colors and 1 remover for under P100.

When choosing the Nail Polish colors, remember to choose "bright" colors (i.e. White, Yellow, etc.) as much as possible. If you are to use "dark" colors (i.e., Red, Blue, etc.), try to use the "brighter" versions of these dark colors, like "Bright Red", for example. Or "Neon Blue". The reason is that if you don't use them, you won't be able to see much the colors once it dries against the flat black background of the slide. One suggestion is that if you can't find a bright version of Red, then Orange is a good substitute.

My Glock 22 in Machine Pistol Configuration

I was generally satisfied with the Glock 23 Machine Pistol configuration that I assembled, it can easily contain short full automatic bursts into a man-sized target at around 13 meters. However, I felt I could build a better Machine Pistol, one that would enable me to shoot full automatic bursts accurately at even longer ranges. For this reason, I decided to buy a Glock 22, as I felt the recoil-reducing accessories and/or parts necessary for building a better Glock Machine Pistol are only currently available on the full-sized Glocks. 

These recoil-reducing accessories are mainly the Endotactical Tactical Stock Adaptor - Glock (TSA-G), coupled with a Magpul Utility Battle Rifle (UBR) Stock. I have reviewed these separately, you can find them here and here. Aside from this, I also used the CAA Tactical Folding Grip Glock - Small (FGG-S), and a Lone Wolf Compensator (coupled to a Lone Wolf Threaded Barrel).


'First Firing Range Session'
With everything more or less ready, I took my Glock 22 in its Machine Pistol configuration into the shooting range for the first time. I used Target Boards, at my standard range of 13 meters. First test was using the STOCK or FACTORY BARREL, with 50 rounds of Semi-Wadcutter, Teflon-Coated (SWC-TC) reloads in standard .40S&W loadings. Recoil was quite noticeable, with the UBR Stock jumping up and into my shoulders with some vigorousity. 

My Magpul UBR for Glock Review

'Magpul UBR Stock'
I was able to buy a China-copy of the Magpul UBR to go with my Endotactical TSA-G. I went with the Magpul UBR mainly because of its looks. I have seen pictures of Glocks with the TSA-G and Magpul Compact Type - Restricted (CTR) stock, and it looked awkward, as the stock looked too big for the pistol. On the other hand, the Magpul Utility Battle Rifle (UBR) looked just about right with the pistol as it is less bulky overall compared to the CTR stock.

In fact, among all the Magpul stocks, as well as collapsible M4 Carbine stocks made by other manufacturers, the UBR looks the most compact, probably after the Ace Ultralight Stock. The Ace Ultralight Stock was actually my first choice, but I just couldn't find anybody selling it in the country, or online.

The seller advertised it as a "Magpul PTS UBR", but I know better, because the unit is marked "Magpul Industries Corporation" on one side, and "Boulder, Colorado, USA" on the other side. A genuine Magpul PTS UBR would've been marked "Magpul PTS" and/or "Professional Training and Simulation". Besides, the unit was priced only have of what a genuine Magpul USA or PTS UBR.

The unit is very well made, though. The workmanship is excellent, very little flashes, no unsightly marks, and the fit of the parts are tight, almost no wobble when the stock is fully extended. The only fly in the ointment is a wayward nut that was not installed properly on one side of the unit, causing it to tilt during installation, of which up to now I am unable to correct. Nevertheless, I'm pretty happy with the unit.

The unit felt a bit rear-heavy initially, so I decided to remove all the items that I do not intend to use with the unit, namely the:
- Storage Plate and Cover;
- Quick Disconnect (QD) Sling Mounts, both front and rear, and the Screws, Nuts, Washers, and Mounting Cups.

Glock 23 Machine Pistol Configuration Part Four

'FSSG Full-Auto Accuracy'
The Drop-In FSSG that I have been using has worked well in terms of providing select-fire capability to my Glock 23 reliably, but I do have one issue with it, and that is in terms of ACCURACY when shooting it at full auto.

I first noticed when I saw that the spread of shots at 10 meters was quite large. The first shot would be dead on, but then the second and third shots would be way off by a couple of inches from eacch other. A rough estimate would be like this: If I aim at the bottom of the target, the first shot would hit spot on the lower right side of the abdomen, then the second would be on the chest area on the left side of the chest of the target, and finally the third shot on the left shoulder or left side of the face area of the target (see picture below).



I found this a bit strange, because the other metal FSSG that was given to me shot quite good at 10 meters (see my previous blog here). With everything else the same (i.e., same configuration, same distance, same ammo, etc.) from the pictures it looked like the metal FSSG was shooting tighter groups by about 3-4 inches.

I can't really say for sure how this came about, but my main suspect is the problem is in terms of the LOCK TIME BETWEEN SHOTS. I suspect is the issue, because when I do the Dry-Fire Test I described on another previous blog, the slide sorts of pauses a bit when it is near the end of its travel, before it goes right thru and releases the Striker.

Glock 23 Machine Pistol Configuration Part Three

'Fab Defense FGG-S'
I chose the Fab Defense FGG-S Tactical Folding Grip over other picatinny foregrips out there, mainly because it definitely was made for the Glock in mind, as it does not only attach to the rails, but also on the lower part of the frame, and the front of the trigger guard. This provides more area to distribute the force applied of the foregrip. This minimizes the flexing of the frame when using the foregrip.

It even has a hook-like protrusion at the upper front of the grip that protects your finger from the muzzle blast. Another item I bought online, which arrived about a week later. The only problem with the grip, is that there is a bit of a gap between the FGG-S and the front area of the trigger guard. This gap allows the frame to flex a bit too much, increasing the gap between the slide and the frame, which I was afraid was going to cause malfunctions.

I decided to put some material to fill that gap between the FGG-S and the frame/trigger guard by using 3M double sided tape (used only one side, kept the backing of the other side intact). I used three layers of the 3M tape to effectively fill that gap, and they seem to work very well in minimizing the the flexing of the frame when force is applied to the FGG-S.



One thing to remember when attaching this grip, is to ensure that you don't overtighten the screw, as Glock says that tightening the screws too much of any attachment on the Picatinny rail will cause the gun to malfunction. There really is no need to tighten too much the screws for this grip, the screw is caught between teeths that keep it from moving back and forth anyway. So just use enough force to lock the screw lightly in place.

The Truth About Lone Wolf Barrels for Glock

I decided to write a long piece about Lone Wolf Distributors' (LWD) barrels for Glock, when I noticed that wrong information about these barrels are still prevalent. I own samples of these barrels, and I want to share what I found about them based on my personal shooting experience with them.

'For Shooting Reloads on Glock'
If you look around the local internet firearms forums or local sales/auction sites, you will notice that most of them recommend the use of these barrels so you can shoot reloads on Glock pistols. Glock pistols come from the factory with its own patented type of "Polygonal Rifling", which they claim lessen friction between the barrel and the bullet, thus increasing the velocity of the bullet as it leaves the barrel.

Unfortunately, such rifling tends to build up more deposits in the barrel at a faster rate, which, if the build up is sufficient enough, could cause certain types of catasthropic failures during firing in one form, or the other. This is the reason why Glock in their manual specify that lead bullets NOT be used using the stock or factory barrel. 

My Endotactical TSA-G Review

'Endotactical TSA-G'
The Endotactical Tactical Stock Adapter - Glock (TSA-G) was actually the main reason for my buying a full-sized Glock. The TSA-G fits only full-sized Glock at the moment, and I felt it was much superior than the GLR440 Stock I used on my Glock 23 as it attaches to the Glock on 2 points, compared to the one point on the GLR440. Because of this, you will have better control of the Glock during recoil.

Another advantage of the TSA-G, is that you can use much more solid stocks built for the M4 Carbine, as opposed to the relatively flimsy 1" width Polymer stock of the GLR440. These two advantages I felt will enable much better control of the weapon during full-auto, not resulting in that diagonal climb to 1-2 o'clock that I found when using the GLR440 stock.

I got what is likely to be a China-copy of the TSA-G from a shop at the Makati Cinema Square (MCS). The reason I think it is a China-copy, are three things: First, is the price. The original sells for USD 150 in the US, while I bought it for only P 3,500 (approximately USD 81). Second thing is that the Retaining Pin that secures the unit to the Glock is made of Polymer, while the ones I saw on the videos for the original TSA-Gs are made of Stainless Steel. I don't think this will be much of a factor on the function of the unit, though.

Third is that there is no small ball chain that secures the Retaining Pin to the TSA-G, while the original always had one. I had to buy a small ball chain from the SM Department stor to secure that Retaining Pin to the TSA-G, and keep it from getting lost during handling.

Magpul Products' Availability in the Philippines

(Update Note: I have updated this blog, click here to read about the latest developments about the topic)

MAGPUL is a relatively new company, that has taken the firearms world by storm the last couple of years. The company's official name is "Magpul Industries Corporation", and was founded in 1999. The company is best known for their plastic accessories and parts, specifically for the AR-15/M-4 platform, and their products are not only very well made, but also very elegant and high-tech looking, which is a big part of their success.

I started buying some of their stuff for my Glock (why I am buying M-4 parts for my Glock? Long story, to be taken in other blogs), and I have had a bit of confusion with regards to which of their products are genuine, which are copied from China, etc. So I did a little bit of research, and I would just like to share some of the things I found out.

First, it turns out that Magpul has two main plants in different locations, producing slightly different parts. And these are MAGPUL USA, and MAGPUL PTS.

'Magpul USA'
Magpul USA or officially, "Magpul Industries" is located in Colorado, USA, and the most important thing to remember about them and their products, is that they only serve the US market. US laws by default forbid them to export these parts and/or accessories for high powered rifles to other countries. They can apply for export of these parts and accessories, but for some reason, they have opted not to do so. As a result, this has had a huge impact on the prices of their products outside of the USA.

That inability to export their products is the primary reason for the outrageous prices of ORIGINAL Magpul USA parts in the Philippines. For example, a "Magpul Compact Type - Restricted" (CTR) Stock in the US costs only USD 80, but some shops at the Makati Cinema Square (MCS) sells the same products for approximately USD 348. That is more than four times the retail price in the US. Another example, would be the Magpul Back Up Sight (MBUS) Generation 2 sights, for example. These retail for only USD 40 in the US, but in an MCS shop? P12,000 (approximately USD 279), or around SEVEN times as much.

My Glock 23 Review Part Five

'Reloads on Stock Barrel'
There has been a lot of written articles about not using Teflon reloads on the stock .40S&W Glock barrel as this would be prone to the kaBoom! or kB! issue. I thought about getting one of those aftermarket barrels which Twin Pines is selling for P7.5k, they are also recommended for shooting Teflon reloads, but then I noticed that a lot of Glock .40S&W owners also has been saying that they have been using Teflon reloads on their stock Glock barrels, so I decided just take a chance and start using reloads. Besides, I just could not afford to keep shooting brandnew FMJ ammo at P21.50 per pop.

As of this writing, I have shot around 950 rounds of Semi-Wadcutter Teflon reloads on my Glock, of which 350 rounds was fired at full auto, and so far I have had no serious issues yet. I do understand the risk, perhaps one of these days I will regret this action and ruin my precious Glock. But, then again, in my humble opinion, as long as I use quality reloads, I should have a good chance of continuing of having a good, shooting experience.

By "quality" reloads, I mean reloads from the major shooting ranges (i.e., those with multiple branches, like Jethro Dionisio, Armscor, etc.). If the shooting range is a small, mom and pop or backyard affair, I think it is worth the risk of buying reloads from major reloaders (i.e., Stronghand, Magnus, etc.), and just bringing it to the range and paying for the corkage fees.

I do make it a habit of cleaning a pistol thoroughly (especially the barrel) within 24-hours of each shooting session. My late father told me you have that amount of time before the corrossive components of the powder residue starts corroding and pitting your barrel. I don't know if that's true, but it does make for a great shooting habit.

One problem I do see with using reloads, is how dirty the gun can be afterwards, especially since I average firing 100 rounds per shooting session. The dirt gets into the nook and crannies of my unit, so I have to detail strip it every time I clean it, to remove the smell and the soot. Strangely, though, the barrel doesn't seem to be excessively fouled up after a shooting session. The barrel remains in excellent condition, with no pittings on it.

Glock 23 Machine Pistol Configuration Part Two

'Heavier Recoil Springs'
I was thinking of putting an extra power recoil spring to reduce wear and tear on the gun especially since I am now firing full auto on it, it sort of makes sense. However, it turns out that there are some adverse effects when using heavier recoil springs, like increased muzzle flip and felt recoil based on this advise from Springtech: http://www.custom-glock.com/springtech.html

They recommend using a LOWER strength recoil spring to reduce felt recoil and muzzle flip, but that would increase the wear and tear on the gun, especially if I use it at full-auto. As it is, I think I will stay with the stock recoil spring for now.

'Alternative Extended Magazine Option'
They are selling those 22 round .40S&W magazines at Makati Cinema Square (MCS) at insane prices, so on alternative to getting higher capacity magazines at cheaper prices for your Compact-sized Glock would be to:
a) Buy magazines used for the full-sized Glocks;
b) Buy magazine extensions for it.

Magazines for full sized Glocks will fit into the compact units, meaning a Glock 22 mag will fit into a Glock 23, if you don't mind the bottom of the mag extending out from your magwell. But then again, if are going to replace and extend the basepads, it wouldn't matter anyway. Trust Trade seems to offer the cheapest Glock magazines, I bought Glock 22 (with "Austria" markings ) Generation 4 magazines (with ambidextrous locking depressions) from them for only P1.7k (with flat basepads).

Take note, though, that removing the baseplates on the stock Glock magazines can be a pretty difficult thing to do, thanks to the over-zealous locking protrusions. In the end, I decided to just remove those protrusions using a cutter to make it easier to remove/install those basepads. I don't think this will affect the functionality of the unit, as the magazine spring tension should be enough to lock those basepads in place.

Glock 23 Machine Pistol Configuration Part One

'Glock Full Auto - Initial Shots'
I had an all-metal Fire Selector Switch for Glock (FSSG) that was given to me by a gunsmith (see "My Fab Defense KPOS Review Part 3" for the full story), and I wanted to try it out, just to see how full auto fire would be with a .40S&W caliber round and a compact frame like the Glock 23. The FSSG is currently stuck on full-auto mode only, I dare not have it fitted again to have select fire capability for fear that it will be ruined again.

I wanted to fire it free hand (i.e., without the help of a shoulder stock and/or front grip), only using my two hands. I haven't fired any pistol in full auto before, so I decided to take it slow, loading only three rounds into the magazines for every shot. I was afraid that if I load a full magazine, the worst will happen and I will start shooting the ceiling if the recoil was severe. I used my standard shooting settings: 13 meters, SWC-TC reloads.

When I fired the first shot, I was surprised at the violence of the recoil. Since I'm firing a .40S&W round, the recoil of three shots was severe, I could feel a tingling in my right hand. Muzzle climb was severe also: I aimed at the center, and the first shot was at center, the second higher, and the third out of the target board. I shot nine more rounds of three rounds per magazine for a total of twelve, and out of those twelve rounds, only seven hit the target board, two of which hit both ears of the target. I even tried aiming at the bottom of the target to compensate for the muzzle climb, but to no avail.



Lesson learned is you definitely cannot fire full auto using a .40S&W caliber in a compact pistol free hand, and hope to have decent accuracy, at least not at 13 meters. At this point, I decided to take a break, go outside, and buy a Fab Defense GLR 440 Stock. I wanted to see how much control a shoulder stock will give me when I shoot the pistol.

My Fab Defense KPOS for Glock Review Part Three

'FSSG for the KPOS'
My one and only biggest frustration about the KPOS right now, is making an FSSG work on it. First problem, is that you will need a special FSSG (Fire-Selector Switch for Glock) for it, instead of the usually cheaper, flat, sliding or rotary FSSGs that are more readily available. This is because you need a backplate that will act both as an FSSG, and also as anchor for the removable cocking lever. This means you will have to get the rarer, and more expensive variant of the FSSG.

As for installing the FSSG on the Glock: They replace the backplate, and instead of my usual routine of removing the slide from the frame and replacing the backplate, you needed to replace it while the slide is still attached to frame. This is because the FSSG is bulky, and if you install it on your slide and slide it to your frame, it will snag with some of the frame's protrusions.

The way to install it is to lock back the slide using the slide release, then replace the backplate with the FSSG. This would also mean that you will NOT be able to disassemble the slide from the frame easily, you will have to remove that FSSG first, before you can remove the slide from the frame.

'FSSG Fitting Problem'
I was able to buy an FSSG from Bro Spitfire, and it needed gunsmith fitting. There is a sword-like protrusion on the FSSG that goes forward and backwards, and it controls whether the gun goes full-auto or not. The depth or distance of this protrusion seems to vary per model, and is built oversized so the gunsmith can slowly file away by trial and error the length of that protrusion. So what the gunsmith did was file it down a little, assemble, then test by firing a couple of rounds off.

The second problem was that the Gunsmith didn't turn out to be very familiar with the product, and made a crucial mistake: He got confused on when the FSSG was supposed to go full, or semi-auto. So he put the gun on extended or full auto settings, and then filed it down to semi-auto. The result: The FSSG won't go full auto anymore.

My Fab Defense KPOS for Glock Review Part Two

'Burris Fast Fire II'

The generic Taiwan HUD I was using was giving me a bit of a headache after using it, I think its because they used some sort of a low-power laser for the dot, and I was worried it might be doing some long-term damage to my eyes. So I decided to replace it with a branded one. I chose the Burris Fast Fire II as it is a low-profile sight, and fits well with the low overall profile of the KPOS.

I bought it online, and the unit arrived in an ordinary, unmarked box, not in the original manufacturer's box. It was generously wrapped in bubble wrap to ensure safe and proper transport. It came with a spare battery only, and despite not having any manual with it, I was able to find instructions in the internet on how to replace the battery.

I read in the internet that these Burris scopes are made in the Philippines, and it was confirmed when I saw in the battery well prominently marked saying, "Made in the Philippines". I wonder which local electronics company is making this? 

My Glock 23 Review Part Four

'Better Shooting'
Went to the shooting range to test my Glock using the NY1 Trigger Spring, 3.5 lb. Connector and Tungsten Guide Rod setup. I used new, Semi-Wad Cutter Full Metal Jacket (SWC-FMJ) rounds labeled as +P rounds, and I'm guessing they were the standard 180 grain bullets. Distance was 13 meters, 100 rounds were fired and no malfunctions were found.

Pic below is using the left hand, 50 rounds

Pic below is using the right hand, also 50 rounds


I definitely shot better using the NY1 Trigger and 3.5 lb. Connector setup. My groupings were tighter, and the difference between my left and right hands were not so obvious anymore. The smoother and lighter break of the setup was easier to shoot, though I still used slow fire (3-5 seconds between shots) method as I still didn't trust myself to shoot as well firing at a faster rate.

The trigger still feels like a two-stage trigger, but it did not affect my shooting, obviously. I guess I will be staying with this setup, and just mess around with the Striker and Striker Block Springs if I am going to lighten further that trigger break.

'Tungsten Guide Rod and Recoil'
My only complaint with this shooting session, was the recoil. I found it to sting my hands a lot more so now than in my first shooting session. I got the feeling like when you hit a solid object with a steel bar, and the bar sorts of vibrates and transfers that vibration into your hands. It felt very much like that. It got so bad that after the first 50 rounds, my hands started shaking a bit. I tried to rest it out, but the shaking took a bit of time to dissipate, and I wonder how I was still able to shoot well despite that. Thanks perhaps to the Glock's fast lock time.