My Fab Defense KPOS for Glock Review Part Three

'FSSG for the KPOS'
My one and only biggest frustration about the KPOS right now, is making an FSSG work on it. First problem, is that you will need a special FSSG (Fire-Selector Switch for Glock) for it, instead of the usually cheaper, flat, sliding or rotary FSSGs that are more readily available. This is because you need a backplate that will act both as an FSSG, and also as anchor for the removable cocking lever. This means you will have to get the rarer, and more expensive variant of the FSSG.

As for installing the FSSG on the Glock: They replace the backplate, and instead of my usual routine of removing the slide from the frame and replacing the backplate, you needed to replace it while the slide is still attached to frame. This is because the FSSG is bulky, and if you install it on your slide and slide it to your frame, it will snag with some of the frame's protrusions.

The way to install it is to lock back the slide using the slide release, then replace the backplate with the FSSG. This would also mean that you will NOT be able to disassemble the slide from the frame easily, you will have to remove that FSSG first, before you can remove the slide from the frame.

'FSSG Fitting Problem'
I was able to buy an FSSG from Bro Spitfire, and it needed gunsmith fitting. There is a sword-like protrusion on the FSSG that goes forward and backwards, and it controls whether the gun goes full-auto or not. The depth or distance of this protrusion seems to vary per model, and is built oversized so the gunsmith can slowly file away by trial and error the length of that protrusion. So what the gunsmith did was file it down a little, assemble, then test by firing a couple of rounds off.

The second problem was that the Gunsmith didn't turn out to be very familiar with the product, and made a crucial mistake: He got confused on when the FSSG was supposed to go full, or semi-auto. So he put the gun on extended or full auto settings, and then filed it down to semi-auto. The result: The FSSG won't go full auto anymore.

My Fab Defense KPOS for Glock Review Part Two

'Burris Fast Fire II'

The generic Taiwan HUD I was using was giving me a bit of a headache after using it, I think its because they used some sort of a low-power laser for the dot, and I was worried it might be doing some long-term damage to my eyes. So I decided to replace it with a branded one. I chose the Burris Fast Fire II as it is a low-profile sight, and fits well with the low overall profile of the KPOS.

I bought it online, and the unit arrived in an ordinary, unmarked box, not in the original manufacturer's box. It was generously wrapped in bubble wrap to ensure safe and proper transport. It came with a spare battery only, and despite not having any manual with it, I was able to find instructions in the internet on how to replace the battery.

I read in the internet that these Burris scopes are made in the Philippines, and it was confirmed when I saw in the battery well prominently marked saying, "Made in the Philippines". I wonder which local electronics company is making this? 

My Glock 23 Review Part Four

'Better Shooting'
Went to the shooting range to test my Glock using the NY1 Trigger Spring, 3.5 lb. Connector and Tungsten Guide Rod setup. I used new, Semi-Wad Cutter Full Metal Jacket (SWC-FMJ) rounds labeled as +P rounds, and I'm guessing they were the standard 180 grain bullets. Distance was 13 meters, 100 rounds were fired and no malfunctions were found.

Pic below is using the left hand, 50 rounds

Pic below is using the right hand, also 50 rounds


I definitely shot better using the NY1 Trigger and 3.5 lb. Connector setup. My groupings were tighter, and the difference between my left and right hands were not so obvious anymore. The smoother and lighter break of the setup was easier to shoot, though I still used slow fire (3-5 seconds between shots) method as I still didn't trust myself to shoot as well firing at a faster rate.

The trigger still feels like a two-stage trigger, but it did not affect my shooting, obviously. I guess I will be staying with this setup, and just mess around with the Striker and Striker Block Springs if I am going to lighten further that trigger break.

'Tungsten Guide Rod and Recoil'
My only complaint with this shooting session, was the recoil. I found it to sting my hands a lot more so now than in my first shooting session. I got the feeling like when you hit a solid object with a steel bar, and the bar sorts of vibrates and transfers that vibration into your hands. It felt very much like that. It got so bad that after the first 50 rounds, my hands started shaking a bit. I tried to rest it out, but the shaking took a bit of time to dissipate, and I wonder how I was still able to shoot well despite that. Thanks perhaps to the Glock's fast lock time.

My Fab Defense KPOS for Glock Review Part One

My experience with the Airsoft EMA Roni Carbine Conversion Kit for Glocks was so positive, that I went out and bought the Fab Defense KPOS Carbine Conversion Kit for my Glock 23. Going to get rid of my other firearms, and am ready to go Glock-crazy.

There were two things that convinced me to by the KPOS instead the Roni; First is that the clearance of the KPOS over the ejection port of the Glock was much wider and lower than that of the Roni. This means less or none of the stovepiping issues I found with the Airsoft Roni.

Second was the fact that the muzzle tube of the KPOS is much bigger and allows for more room for the muzzle blast of expand, unlike the much more enclosed space of the Airsoft Roni's muzzle tube, which resulted in flame damage to the muzzle of my Glock's slide.

This picture shows the kit's clearance over the ejection well

This pic shows the muzzle clearance to the pistol

I bought the unit for P32k at Armscor, and it came with the following items:
- Large, black polymer case with gray foam lining;
- Carbine conversion unit;
- Special rear back plate for use with the KPOS;
- Tool for rear plate removal;
- Manual;
- Under the arm sling;

EMA Airsoft Roni Review for Glocks Part One

I was able to buy an Airsoft EMA Roni Carbine Conversion Kit for my Glock 23. Price has risen since a couple of months ago to Php 8.5k for one with markings, and Php 7.5k for one without markings.

'Physical Appearance'
Finish is not so good, the color is a bit flat, and there are tool markings on some areas. My Glock 23 fit well into the unit, but some adjustment was needed to push the muzzle tube in so it will be closer to the muzzle of my unit. The muzzle tube is held in place by a screw at the bottom that can be tightened or loosened to adjust the muzzle tube's position. Overall fit to the unit is good, but there is a slight gap on the bottom behind the grip.

The whole thing smells like the plastic inside a new car, so I imagine it is made of the same or similar material. I found that wiping the whole unit with tissue paper thoroughly removed much of that smell.

Airsoft Carbine Kit Conversion Options for Real Glocks

I finally made the jump, and bought an Airsoft EMA Roni Carbine Conversion Kit for my Glock 23. Before I make the review with pics, I would just like to discuss all the airsoft options for the Carbine conversion of Glock pistols as I learned. Take note that all of this was gathered thru informal conversations with the sellers on my way to getting my Airsoft Roni.

I will not be naming the stores or place where I learned these things, first because I am not sure if they will agree to it as I did not ask their permission to reveal these information. Second is I am not sure of the legality of some of these conversions, I think it is sort of a gray area.

I will be discussing options for the Glock, but will spare a paragraph for the 1911 conversion that I saw.

'Main Options for Glocks'
There are about four airsoft options available for converting Glocks into carbines, and these are the Hera-Arms PDW Kit, the Fab Defense KPOS Kit, the EMA Roni Kit, and the Folding Machine Gun Kit.

According to the seller, the Hera Arms Kit was the first kit that was "explored" for use with real guns, and it worked well. The only problem with the Hera Arms Kit, is that it is not as easy to fit your Glock into it, it seems you need to make some permanent changes that will take a bit more time to do. In short, it is not a quick, drop-in conversion like the Roni. I forgot to ask the price for this unit.

My Glock 23 Review Part Three

'Trigger Disassembly'
I wanted to install a New York Trigger on my unit, and to do so I needed to disassemble the Trigger Assembly. To do this, I first needed to remove the three pins on the frame of a typical Glock: The Trigger Pin, the Trigger Housing Pin and the Locking Block Pin. I was able to easily remove both the Locking Block and Trigger Housing Pins with a slight tap with the help of a small nail. However, I had a hard time removing the Trigger Pin. After a couple of hard taps and nothing still happening, I decided to check in the internet as I felt something was wrong. Besides, I didn't want to ruin my Glock just because of something I missed. When in doubt, check the internet.

And true enough, it turns out that you don't need or want to force out that Trigger Pin. The key to removing it, is to sort of move the Slide Stop Lever back and forth while maintaining force against that Trigger Pin. After a couple of wiggling, the Trigger Pin just sort of slid out easily out of the frame. Its an alignment issue, apparently the spring on the Slide Stop Lever sometimes gets caught in the groove of the Trigger Pin:
- http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1184726

The internet can really be such a great help, I sometimes wonder how things would've been if it weren't around.

'New York 1 Trigger'
I thought about tinkering with the Glock trigger because I wanted to be able to shoot quickly and accurately with it. I read in some respectable sources that experts say the best trigger job available for the Glock would be a so-called "New York 1 Trigger (NY1)", coupled with a 3.5 lb. Connector. When I saw a NY1 Trigger available locally during the recent Gun Show, I immediately bought it as a first step of finding that "ideal" trigger.

The standard, Out of the Box trigger for a Glock 23 is a light slack, followed by a heavy, squishy break, or something like, "light-light-heavier-heavier squishy-break". What the NY1 Trigger does, is make that light slack heavier, or something like, "heavy-heavy-heavier-even heavier squishy-break". It makes the Glock trigger a little bit safer because of that heavier trigger slack pull.